Feeling right at home with the Batwa Community in Uganda
Just another “cultural” experience? Never with Tett Safaris
I’m always pretty leery of the typical tourist “cultural experience” when I’m traveling. It seems awkward and uninviting to leer into a tribal village like a scheduled spectator. So, when my family visited Uganda last month with Tett Safaris (our first post-COVID trip!) and our guide Abdu offered us the opportunity to visit the Batwa village I was a bit hesitant.
As usual with Tett Safaris we were deep into an area that was not heavily overrun by tourists and assured this was an actual working village that welcomed guests for an intimate visit.
We made our way on foot through a field and along a small stream approaching the bridge that would lead us into the Batwa encampment. There was a small greeting line of the Batwa Elders. I was pleasantly surprised no one confronted us to sell us a necklace that looked African or a swath of material that we could turn into a tablecloth. There were just four handsome, beaming tribesmen waiting there with bright eyes and expectant grins. They genuinely seemed overjoyed to see us. We all shook hands and they led us across the bridge to the village. In an instant, it felt as if we had stepped back in time. As we picked our way along the stream, the Batwa hunters bounded ahead of us and disappeared into the bush. As we approached, they performed a reenactment of how they hunt duiker in the forest. In case we didn’t get it the first time, they repeated it for us twice, all the while pointing, yelling, and barking orders in Batwa. I felt like a participant, not a spectator, as the men perfectly acted out the details of a successful hunt. They continued to turn to us and explain in loud Batwa what was happening, drawing us into the melee. It felt like a truly educational experience. They were in full instruction mode as they attempted to teach us their amazing traditions.
It was an incredible experience. Not once during our visit were we asked to buy something, or were we led into a room filled with “traditional” crafts. The people were proud and elegant and continued their daily chores allowing us an amazing view of their life in the bush. The schoolroom kids popped up when we passed by and practiced their English on us. We walked through their agricultural fields and were handed roots to plant as we went. We watched them prepare chicken kebabs around a fire and then witnessed the Chief dole out portions to all villagers, starting with the eldest. They danced after lunch to give thanks and we joined in. There was no formal tourist entertainment; they didn’t dance for us. They danced for themselves to celebrate their life.
Our last stop was their sewing room, which is how they continue to support themselves. Four women worked the sewing machines, while off to the side three other women waited patiently. We asked if they were learning, but we were told that they were waiting for their turn to use a sewing machine as they were all competent seamstresses. The room hummed with constant activity.
Only the Chief followed us out as we made our way to the bridge. As we parted ways, Carolyn Tett leaned in to whisper something to our Batwa interpreter. We said our goodbyes, and retraced our steps along that stream, hesitantly returning to the 21st Century. Back at our hotel our camp manager greeted us and thanked us for our contribution to the village. We looked expectantly at Carolyn Tett and she just shrugged her shoulders. Two weeks later the manager emailed us all a video, showing the Batwa villagers dancing and singing around the three new sewing machines Carolyn had delivered to the Batwa village to relieve the backup in the sewing room.
The thought of their happiness makes me weep. I like to think that somehow, we were a part of that gift being possible.
Now that was a true cultural experience.
Article by Brontee Ryan
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